Asian Acrobats

Species
Skunk gecko Gekko vitatus
Flying gecko Ptychozoon kuhli

This combination is for display only. They should be around the same size so one cannot eat the other (DON’T MIX BABIES WITH ADULTS). They should be housed in a vertically oriented vivarium at least 20 gallons (the bigger the better) as both species are aboreal. The temperature should be kept between 85 and 70 degrees F. The humidity level should be between 65%-70%. This can be achieved by misting the vivarium twice daily and having a partially covered screen top. The vivarium should be well planted with a variety of climbing opportunities. Visible barriers such as hollow logs should be placed in the enclosure to give them privacy.

 

Flying gecko Ptychozoon kuhli

Both species eat crickets and will lap up small amounts of fruit or honey. All food items should be dusted with calcium. Clean fresh water should be provided in a bowl daily this will also help with the humidity. There should be only one male of either species as males will fight to the death. Both of these animals should not be handled often as this can lead to stress.

 Skunk gecko Gekko vitatus

These are two beautiful lizards and if given the right setup and plants it can make for a beautiful and exotic tropical display vivarium.

The Temperate Cricket Eaters

Species
Green Tree Frog Hyla cinerea
Grey Tree Frog Hyla versicolor
Green Anole Anolis carolinensis
Brown Anole Anolis sagrei
House Gecko Hemidactylus frenatus
Rough Green Snake Opheodrys aestivus
Long tailed Grass Lizard (LTG) Takydromus sexlineatus

This viv was definitely my most diverse one because of the many lizard species, the 3 foot snake that ONLY ate insects and the tree frogs this was my first mixed vivarium.

My first mixed terrarium contained a long tailed grass lizard, 

brown anole, green anole, house gecko, green tree frog, 

and a rough green snake.

For these herps I would recommend a tall terrarium with some ground space since all of the species listed are either aboreal or semi aboreal. There should be a good amount of plant cover and many vertical and horizontal branches for them to hide in and climb on. If any rocks are added make sure that they are secure because LTGs will dig and hide under them.  A UV light source must be available so diurnal reptiles can bask and absorb calcium and so the plants stay healthy.

The temperature should be between 70-80 degrees F with a humidity level between 70% and 75%. This can be achieved by misting the cage twice daily, using live plants and by having a large enough bowl of clean water for animals to soak in. All animals in this setup eat crickets and other appropriately sized insects. Daily spot cleaning will be necessary in order to keep bacteria from building up.

Only be one male anole of any species present in the tank. Male green anoles and male brown anoles will fight so it is best to have only one male present in the tank at any time. Ideally one would want all females to avoid any hybrid anoles. With the exception of the anoles all other species can be male or female as long as there is only one male of each species. This will avoid any territorial disputes.

This combination makes for a very attractive setup providing enjoyment during the day as well as the night.

The Odd Couple

Species
Banded Gecko Coleonyx variegatus
Stripe Tail Scorpion Vaejovis spinigerus

Disclaimer: I believe this worked because the owner had experience with both species before he mixed them. These are not my animals. DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME WITHOUT PRIOR EXPERIENCE.

I was searching through the internet and I found some interesting pictures that I found pretty odd yet cool. At first I thought they are eating each other. Then I read what the owner of this setup wrote and realized that they actually have a mutual relationship (meaning that they benefit from each other). Both species are from the same geographical area and apparently the scorpion protects the geckos from larger predators and gives the gecko shelter while the gecko protects the scorpion from ants (so the story goes). I look forward to hearing more about this odd pairing hopefully the owner will put out a care sheet for this pairing so others can try it and learn from his experiences. So without delay here are some of the pictures I found. Enjoy.

 

The Cleaning Crew

Species
Isopods
Springtails

Isopods and Springtails can be added to almost any vivarium. They will thrive if kept damp feeding on any fungus, decaying plant material (wood and leaves), dead crickets and any other uneaten food laying around the tank. These little janitors multiply with ease. I usually keep a culture of them to the side just in case. They can also control mite and nematode populations by eating the detritus that the mites and nematodes thrive on. This is the most ecological approach when it comes to controlling these pests.

Isopods and springtails in the vivarium.

Vivarium inhabitants will also eat them. Isopods are high in calcium and are readily eaten by everything from the obvious frogs and lizards to hermit crabs. Isopod young as well as springtails are also the perfect size for developing young lizards and frogs. Although there may be predation of these invertebrates they reproduce so quickly that it won’t impact the population dramatically.

 

Isopods are not actually insects but crustaceans like 

crabs and lobsters.

Depending on the species Isopods reproduce both sexually and parthenogenetically (meaning it takes only one to reproduce). They can be found under leaves, logs , rocks and any damp place they have access to. They can be collected by picking them up with a spoon or your hands

Springtails are found on all 7 continents even Antarctica.

Springtails share the same environment as isopods. They reproduce sexually burying eggs in the substrate. They are also very tiny (normally less than 6 mm long) making them hard to see and jump relatively far for their size making them hard to collect. When I collect them I usually pick them up with a spoon along with any dirt or debris they are walking on to keep them from jumping off. I place that in a container and fill the container with water. Springtails tend to use the surface tension of water to walk and float on the water. Then using a straw I pick up the spring tails by placing one end of the straw over the insect then cover the other end with my finger. I then place the end with the springtail over the container where I want them and remove my finger. This releases the suction and the springtails fall into the new container.

Isopods and springtails clean up messes made by terrarium inhabitants by eating decaying material present in the vivarium and control other pest such as mites nematodes and fungi. This combination is invaluable to any naturalistic vivarium.

A Milli with R. cili

Crested Geckos Rhacodactylus ciliatus
Millipedes (eg. African Giant Millipedes Archispirostreptus gigas)

Although I personally never tried this combination there are many people who house the two together without any problems and while these large millipedes may seem unsettling to some, they are very beneficial to those who are keeping naturalistic terrariums.

Millipedes are beneficial to the vivarium because they eat left 

over crested gecko food aswell as any decaying plant matter.

For this combination I recommend at least 20 gallon tall tank which will safely house both species . The general rule that you want to follow is that the cage is twice the length of the millipede, as deep as the millipede is long. While floor space is more important than height for the millipedes it is still important to have a tall enclosure with climbing opportunities for the crested gecko. Make sure the enclosure has a secure lid. Millipedes and crested geckos, like to eat soft fruits (I use baby food). These guys will also eat the Powdered Crested Gecko Diet if it is available to them. You also want to make sure that you have a shallow water dish with clean water available at all times.

Crested Geckos will do very well with Millipedes, and the Millipedes will quite readily breed when a male and a female are housed together, so you could very likely end up with babies if keeping the opposite sex together. The temperature during the day needs to be at least 72 degrees F. They also like to burrow, so a three to four inch layer of peat moss, or peat moss mixture is recommended for their substrate. Millipedes secrete an irritating liquid in self defense, usually when handled by owners. I shouldn’t have to say this but be sure to wash your hands after handling millipedes as their secretions can cause major irritation or death.

It is also important that you do not directly spray your millipedes with water because they breathe through their skin and they have symbiotic body mites. These mites clear any obstructions blocking their hosts spiracles (breathing holes).. Although they are mites, they will not affect the crested gecko (or any other animals). Directly spraying a millipede with water could wash them off. These "mites" play an important role in the millipedes health, trying to rid a Millipede of them could result in death.

These species make a great combination. Though I never had one, they do not seem to show any sort of aggression towards one another and can live together quite peacefully.

Crests and Claws

Crested Geckos Rhacodactylus ciliatus
Caribbean Hermit Crab Coenobita clypeatus

I enjoyed this exotic combination unfortunately I do not have any pictures. Between the colorful hermit crabs with their shells and the equally colorful crested geckos with their prehistoric looks this vivarium was a favorite. The hermit crabs being the scavengers they are, are very good janitors for the vivarium. When it came to the messy crested geckos running in baby food and jumping on the branches , defecating or dead crickets the crabs would go and clean it right up. They also picked at any food that the crested geckos left over in the tank or any leaves that fell off of the plants.

First off before trying this the hermit crabs should be larger than the crested geckos head so they cannot be eaten but small enough that they won’t pose any threat to the geckos(although I never seen any aggression form one species to the other). The tank should be atleast 29 gallons with atleast 4in of substrate so the crabs can dig and hide when they molt. Extra shells must be in the tank at all times for the crabs. Many climbing opportunities should be available for both crested geckos and crabs any rocks placed in the tank should be secure so they don’t fall over if the hermit crabs dig under them. The bowls for food and water should also be reasonably heavy so they cannot be tipped over by digging crabs. The temperature should be no less than 70 and no more than 80 degrees F.

This has proved to be a good combination for me and everyone I know who has tried it. Both species are docile and tend to mind their own business. All in all this combination proved to be a very exotic while being very practical one at the same time.

A New Addition

So today I woke up and decided to check up on my Crested Gecko trio which consist of 2 females (Olive and Feather) and one male (Mango). So any way I was checking on them throwing out old food and cleaning their enclosure when I found 2 eggs which I believe belong to Feather and of course Mango. I then made a makeshift incubator from an old container I had. Today would make day one of incubation.

 Mango (Top) and Feather (Bottom). The camera doesn't do them justice.

I did some research on crested gecko eggs and incubation information. what I found they hatch after about 60 – 70 days from being laid and should be kept between 72 – 80 degrees F. I have the eggs on dampened perlite to keep eggs from drying out and keep mold from forming on the eggs.

The Egg. The line on top of it is to determine which side is up. 

Turning the egg can be fatal to the embryo.

So I have them in the “oven” and i will record their progress as time goes on. Wish me luck!

A Word on Mixing Species

When mixing species always make sure that you KNOW the following BASICS.

Environmental Requirements- Humidity Range (Frogs can’t live in deserts), Temperature (Crested Geckos cannot live with Leopard Geckos), Light Requirements (some diurnal species need UV lamps to absorb calcium), Mineral Requirements (Some hermit crabs require salt water), Where does it live(desert, swamp, beach ect.)?

Behavior- is it aquatic, semi-aquatic, terrestrial, semi-arboreal or arboreal? Does it climb, dig, swim, soak, bask, jump or glide (flying geckos). Does it hide a lot? Is it nocturnal or diurnal? Is it active and curious or in-active and private? What is its temperament? Is the animal docile (like communal tree frogs) or aggressive? If it is aggressive is it aggressive only among other members of their species (such as small anole males who will fight each other to the death), or is it aggressive to everything (such as pac-man frogs who will eat anything and bite anything that comes to close)? Does it have a high or low metabolism (this will determine how much waste the animal creates)? How do they forage or hunt? Do they molt and are there any special needs (Hermit crabs need extra shells)?

Diet- What does it eat? Is it frugivorous (Crested Geckos), herbivorous (Snails and Millipedes), insectivorous (Most if not all herps to some extent), carnivorous (large Frogs Monitors and Snakes), cannibalistic (Most (NOT ALL) Geckos), opportunistic (Hermit Crabs), detritivorous (Isopods and Springtails), croprophagic (some animals eat their waste) and so on? What is its prey size (a baby gecko cannot eat a full grown cricket but the cricket can eat the baby gecko)? Are the diets of the species I want to mix similar (crested geckos and millipedes eat fruit but not each other)? Will they eat each other (Crested Geckos and Blue-tongue skinks can live together despite size differences but crested will eat baby blue-tongues)?

Size Difference- how big will they get? Will one eventually be big enough to eat the other one? Will there be enough space for all species in one tank/enclosure? What size tank/enclosure would I need?

These are just SOME of the things one must consider before mixing species and the reason why many people have failed attempts is because they mix herps like they are fish which also cannot be mixed without careful planning. Take these questions into account before you try this so you don’t have a VERY EXPENSIVE FAILURE.

A Mixed Experience

As a child I was always fascinated by nature always catching insects and trying to mimic their natural surroundings. During the summers my family use to drive to the south and it was on my first ride down south I caught my first tree frogs at my aunts house in South Carolina I was probably 7 at the time. They were all over the house all different colors we spent the night there and continued to drive to Florida where I caught my first lizard. It was that moment I picked up my favorite interest the husbandry of my herps and naturalistic vivariums(vivs). For those who do not know herp stands for it is derived from the word herpetology which is a branch of zoology that focuses on reptiles and amphibians. In short herps are reptiles and amphibians and vivariums are enclosed areas for keeping and raising animals or plants for observation or research.

While in college I became interested in mixed vivariums. So being the student I was I researched the topic. This did nothing for me because apparently in the herp hobby mixed species terrariums are frowned upon and for good reason in some cases. Very rarely did I come across a web site that had an EDUCATED or EXPERIENCED point of view on the topic. This is what inspired my blog. So while I was doing my research I looked up different herps and decided that I will start simple and small. So I researched animals that where docile, have the same temperature range, humidity, diet etcetera to determine compatibility and came up with my first mixed viv list.

Green Tree Frog
Green Anole
Bahamian or Brown Anole
Long Tailed Grass Lizard
House Gecko

By this time I had a lot of experience with these herps and had an idea of how each one would interact. I had them all in a 30 gallon planted vivarium without a problem for a few years. I achieved this by not catering to just one species but all of them. I later started reading up on principles of Ecology and applied that knowledge in my vivarium by adding decomposers like springtails and isopods which reproduced like crazy. This was my first mixed vivarium not my last.

This blog will explore species that I feel are compatible in THEORY, combinations that have worked with personally or that others have done and other areas of herp husbandry. I hope this can be used as a tool in order to educate people who want to take up the challenge and have a mixed species experience.