Sunday, April 4, 2010
Monday, March 29, 2010
Time to Hatch
Its been awhile since I wrote anything on here I had allot going on during the past few weeks. It has been 57 days since Feather laid her last egg. the egg has been incubating and getting larger for 54 days. It takes anywhere between 60 and 70 days to hatch these eggs.
I incubated the egg on damp pearlite substrate to keep the humidity above 90% but keep mold from growing on the egg. The temperature in the incubator varied from 75 to 82 degrees F.
I'm very excited to see this egg hatch as well as see what color morph the new born will be.
Before and after the picture to the right was taken at the beginning
of incubation on day 3 and the picture to the left was taken on day 57.
I incubated the egg on damp pearlite substrate to keep the humidity above 90% but keep mold from growing on the egg. The temperature in the incubator varied from 75 to 82 degrees F.
I'm very excited to see this egg hatch as well as see what color morph the new born will be.
Sunday, February 14, 2010
Asian Acrobats
Species
Skunk gecko Gekko vitatus
Flying gecko Ptychozoon kuhli
This combination is for display only. They should be around the same size so one cannot eat the other (DON’T MIX BABIES WITH ADULTS). They should be housed in a vertically oriented vivarium at least 20 gallons (the bigger the better) as both species are aboreal. The temperature should be kept between 85 and 70 degrees F. The humidity level should be between 65%-70%. This can be achieved by misting the vivarium twice daily and having a partially covered screen top. The vivarium should be well planted with a variety of climbing opportunities. Visible barriers such as hollow logs should be placed in the enclosure to give them privacy.
Both species eat crickets and will lap up small amounts of fruit or honey. All food items should be dusted with calcium. Clean fresh water should be provided in a bowl daily this will also help with the humidity. There should be only one male of either species as males will fight to the death. Both of these animals should not be handled often as this can lead to stress.
These are two beautiful lizards and if given the right setup and plants it can make for a beautiful and exotic tropical display vivarium.
Skunk gecko Gekko vitatus
Flying gecko Ptychozoon kuhli
This combination is for display only. They should be around the same size so one cannot eat the other (DON’T MIX BABIES WITH ADULTS). They should be housed in a vertically oriented vivarium at least 20 gallons (the bigger the better) as both species are aboreal. The temperature should be kept between 85 and 70 degrees F. The humidity level should be between 65%-70%. This can be achieved by misting the vivarium twice daily and having a partially covered screen top. The vivarium should be well planted with a variety of climbing opportunities. Visible barriers such as hollow logs should be placed in the enclosure to give them privacy.
Flying gecko Ptychozoon kuhli
Both species eat crickets and will lap up small amounts of fruit or honey. All food items should be dusted with calcium. Clean fresh water should be provided in a bowl daily this will also help with the humidity. There should be only one male of either species as males will fight to the death. Both of these animals should not be handled often as this can lead to stress.
Skunk gecko Gekko vitatus
These are two beautiful lizards and if given the right setup and plants it can make for a beautiful and exotic tropical display vivarium.
Tuesday, February 9, 2010
The Temperate Cricket Eaters
Species
Green Tree Frog Hyla cinerea
Grey Tree Frog Hyla versicolor
Green Anole Anolis carolinensis
Brown Anole Anolis sagrei
House Gecko Hemidactylus frenatus
Rough Green Snake Opheodrys aestivus
Long tailed Grass Lizard (LTG) Takydromus sexlineatus
This viv was definitely my most diverse one because of the many lizard species, the 3 foot snake that ONLY ate insects and the tree frogs this was my first mixed vivarium.
For these herps I would recommend a tall terrarium with some ground space since all of the species listed are either aboreal or semi aboreal. There should be a good amount of plant cover and many vertical and horizontal branches for them to hide in and climb on. If any rocks are added make sure that they are secure because LTGs will dig and hide under them. A UV light source must be available so diurnal reptiles can bask and absorb calcium and so the plants stay healthy.
The temperature should be between 70-80 degrees F with a humidity level between 70% and 75%. This can be achieved by misting the cage twice daily, using live plants and by having a large enough bowl of clean water for animals to soak in. All animals in this setup eat crickets and other appropriately sized insects. Daily spot cleaning will be necessary in order to keep bacteria from building up.
Only be one male anole of any species present in the tank. Male green anoles and male brown anoles will fight so it is best to have only one male present in the tank at any time. Ideally one would want all females to avoid any hybrid anoles. With the exception of the anoles all other species can be male or female as long as there is only one male of each species. This will avoid any territorial disputes.
This combination makes for a very attractive setup providing enjoyment during the day as well as the night.
Green Tree Frog Hyla cinerea
Grey Tree Frog Hyla versicolor
Green Anole Anolis carolinensis
Brown Anole Anolis sagrei
House Gecko Hemidactylus frenatus
Rough Green Snake Opheodrys aestivus
Long tailed Grass Lizard (LTG) Takydromus sexlineatus
This viv was definitely my most diverse one because of the many lizard species, the 3 foot snake that ONLY ate insects and the tree frogs this was my first mixed vivarium.
My first mixed terrarium contained a long tailed grass lizard,
brown anole, green anole, house gecko, green tree frog,
and a rough green snake.
For these herps I would recommend a tall terrarium with some ground space since all of the species listed are either aboreal or semi aboreal. There should be a good amount of plant cover and many vertical and horizontal branches for them to hide in and climb on. If any rocks are added make sure that they are secure because LTGs will dig and hide under them. A UV light source must be available so diurnal reptiles can bask and absorb calcium and so the plants stay healthy.
The temperature should be between 70-80 degrees F with a humidity level between 70% and 75%. This can be achieved by misting the cage twice daily, using live plants and by having a large enough bowl of clean water for animals to soak in. All animals in this setup eat crickets and other appropriately sized insects. Daily spot cleaning will be necessary in order to keep bacteria from building up.
Only be one male anole of any species present in the tank. Male green anoles and male brown anoles will fight so it is best to have only one male present in the tank at any time. Ideally one would want all females to avoid any hybrid anoles. With the exception of the anoles all other species can be male or female as long as there is only one male of each species. This will avoid any territorial disputes.
This combination makes for a very attractive setup providing enjoyment during the day as well as the night.
Sunday, February 7, 2010
The Odd Couple
Species
Banded Gecko Coleonyx variegatus
Stripe Tail Scorpion Vaejovis spinigerus
Disclaimer: I believe this worked because the owner had experience with both species before he mixed them. These are not my animals. DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME WITHOUT PRIOR EXPERIENCE.
I was searching through the internet and I found some interesting pictures that I found pretty odd yet cool. At first I thought they are eating each other. Then I read what the owner of this setup wrote and realized that they actually have a mutual relationship (meaning that they benefit from each other). Both species are from the same geographical area and apparently the scorpion protects the geckos from larger predators and gives the gecko shelter while the gecko protects the scorpion from ants (so the story goes). I look forward to hearing more about this odd pairing hopefully the owner will put out a care sheet for this pairing so others can try it and learn from his experiences. So without delay here are some of the pictures I found. Enjoy.
Banded Gecko Coleonyx variegatus
Stripe Tail Scorpion Vaejovis spinigerus
Disclaimer: I believe this worked because the owner had experience with both species before he mixed them. These are not my animals. DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME WITHOUT PRIOR EXPERIENCE.
I was searching through the internet and I found some interesting pictures that I found pretty odd yet cool. At first I thought they are eating each other. Then I read what the owner of this setup wrote and realized that they actually have a mutual relationship (meaning that they benefit from each other). Both species are from the same geographical area and apparently the scorpion protects the geckos from larger predators and gives the gecko shelter while the gecko protects the scorpion from ants (so the story goes). I look forward to hearing more about this odd pairing hopefully the owner will put out a care sheet for this pairing so others can try it and learn from his experiences. So without delay here are some of the pictures I found. Enjoy.
Saturday, February 6, 2010
The Cleaning Crew
Species
Isopods
Springtails
Isopods and Springtails can be added to almost any vivarium. They will thrive if kept damp feeding on any fungus, decaying plant material (wood and leaves), dead crickets and any other uneaten food laying around the tank. These little janitors multiply with ease. I usually keep a culture of them to the side just in case. They can also control mite and nematode populations by eating the detritus that the mites and nematodes thrive on. This is the most ecological approach when it comes to controlling these pests.
Vivarium inhabitants will also eat them. Isopods are high in calcium and are readily eaten by everything from the obvious frogs and lizards to hermit crabs. Isopod young as well as springtails are also the perfect size for developing young lizards and frogs. Although there may be predation of these invertebrates they reproduce so quickly that it won’t impact the population dramatically.
Depending on the species Isopods reproduce both sexually and parthenogenetically (meaning it takes only one to reproduce). They can be found under leaves, logs , rocks and any damp place they have access to. They can be collected by picking them up with a spoon or your hands
Springtails share the same environment as isopods. They reproduce sexually burying eggs in the substrate. They are also very tiny (normally less than 6 mm long) making them hard to see and jump relatively far for their size making them hard to collect. When I collect them I usually pick them up with a spoon along with any dirt or debris they are walking on to keep them from jumping off. I place that in a container and fill the container with water. Springtails tend to use the surface tension of water to walk and float on the water. Then using a straw I pick up the spring tails by placing one end of the straw over the insect then cover the other end with my finger. I then place the end with the springtail over the container where I want them and remove my finger. This releases the suction and the springtails fall into the new container.
Isopods and springtails clean up messes made by terrarium inhabitants by eating decaying material present in the vivarium and control other pest such as mites nematodes and fungi. This combination is invaluable to any naturalistic vivarium.
Isopods
Springtails
Isopods and Springtails can be added to almost any vivarium. They will thrive if kept damp feeding on any fungus, decaying plant material (wood and leaves), dead crickets and any other uneaten food laying around the tank. These little janitors multiply with ease. I usually keep a culture of them to the side just in case. They can also control mite and nematode populations by eating the detritus that the mites and nematodes thrive on. This is the most ecological approach when it comes to controlling these pests.
Isopods and springtails in the vivarium.
Vivarium inhabitants will also eat them. Isopods are high in calcium and are readily eaten by everything from the obvious frogs and lizards to hermit crabs. Isopod young as well as springtails are also the perfect size for developing young lizards and frogs. Although there may be predation of these invertebrates they reproduce so quickly that it won’t impact the population dramatically.
Isopods are not actually insects but crustaceans like
crabs and lobsters.
Depending on the species Isopods reproduce both sexually and parthenogenetically (meaning it takes only one to reproduce). They can be found under leaves, logs , rocks and any damp place they have access to. They can be collected by picking them up with a spoon or your hands
Springtails are found on all 7 continents even Antarctica.
Springtails share the same environment as isopods. They reproduce sexually burying eggs in the substrate. They are also very tiny (normally less than 6 mm long) making them hard to see and jump relatively far for their size making them hard to collect. When I collect them I usually pick them up with a spoon along with any dirt or debris they are walking on to keep them from jumping off. I place that in a container and fill the container with water. Springtails tend to use the surface tension of water to walk and float on the water. Then using a straw I pick up the spring tails by placing one end of the straw over the insect then cover the other end with my finger. I then place the end with the springtail over the container where I want them and remove my finger. This releases the suction and the springtails fall into the new container.
Isopods and springtails clean up messes made by terrarium inhabitants by eating decaying material present in the vivarium and control other pest such as mites nematodes and fungi. This combination is invaluable to any naturalistic vivarium.
Friday, February 5, 2010
A Milli with R. cili
Crested Geckos Rhacodactylus ciliatus
Millipedes (eg. African Giant Millipedes Archispirostreptus gigas)
Although I personally never tried this combination there are many people who house the two together without any problems and while these large millipedes may seem unsettling to some, they are very beneficial to those who are keeping naturalistic terrariums.
For this combination I recommend at least 20 gallon tall tank which will safely house both species . The general rule that you want to follow is that the cage is twice the length of the millipede, as deep as the millipede is long. While floor space is more important than height for the millipedes it is still important to have a tall enclosure with climbing opportunities for the crested gecko. Make sure the enclosure has a secure lid. Millipedes and crested geckos, like to eat soft fruits (I use baby food). These guys will also eat the Powdered Crested Gecko Diet if it is available to them. You also want to make sure that you have a shallow water dish with clean water available at all times.
Crested Geckos will do very well with Millipedes, and the Millipedes will quite readily breed when a male and a female are housed together, so you could very likely end up with babies if keeping the opposite sex together. The temperature during the day needs to be at least 72 degrees F. They also like to burrow, so a three to four inch layer of peat moss, or peat moss mixture is recommended for their substrate. Millipedes secrete an irritating liquid in self defense, usually when handled by owners. I shouldn’t have to say this but be sure to wash your hands after handling millipedes as their secretions can cause major irritation or death.
It is also important that you do not directly spray your millipedes with water because they breathe through their skin and they have symbiotic body mites. These mites clear any obstructions blocking their hosts spiracles (breathing holes).. Although they are mites, they will not affect the crested gecko (or any other animals). Directly spraying a millipede with water could wash them off. These "mites" play an important role in the millipedes health, trying to rid a Millipede of them could result in death.
These species make a great combination. Though I never had one, they do not seem to show any sort of aggression towards one another and can live together quite peacefully.
Millipedes (eg. African Giant Millipedes Archispirostreptus gigas)
Although I personally never tried this combination there are many people who house the two together without any problems and while these large millipedes may seem unsettling to some, they are very beneficial to those who are keeping naturalistic terrariums.
Millipedes are beneficial to the vivarium because they eat left
over crested gecko food aswell as any decaying plant matter.
For this combination I recommend at least 20 gallon tall tank which will safely house both species . The general rule that you want to follow is that the cage is twice the length of the millipede, as deep as the millipede is long. While floor space is more important than height for the millipedes it is still important to have a tall enclosure with climbing opportunities for the crested gecko. Make sure the enclosure has a secure lid. Millipedes and crested geckos, like to eat soft fruits (I use baby food). These guys will also eat the Powdered Crested Gecko Diet if it is available to them. You also want to make sure that you have a shallow water dish with clean water available at all times.
Crested Geckos will do very well with Millipedes, and the Millipedes will quite readily breed when a male and a female are housed together, so you could very likely end up with babies if keeping the opposite sex together. The temperature during the day needs to be at least 72 degrees F. They also like to burrow, so a three to four inch layer of peat moss, or peat moss mixture is recommended for their substrate. Millipedes secrete an irritating liquid in self defense, usually when handled by owners. I shouldn’t have to say this but be sure to wash your hands after handling millipedes as their secretions can cause major irritation or death.
It is also important that you do not directly spray your millipedes with water because they breathe through their skin and they have symbiotic body mites. These mites clear any obstructions blocking their hosts spiracles (breathing holes).. Although they are mites, they will not affect the crested gecko (or any other animals). Directly spraying a millipede with water could wash them off. These "mites" play an important role in the millipedes health, trying to rid a Millipede of them could result in death.
These species make a great combination. Though I never had one, they do not seem to show any sort of aggression towards one another and can live together quite peacefully.
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